Schweinekotelett mit Petersilienerdäpfel

„Schweinefleisch um 2,50 Euro pro Kilo“ – so werben noch heute viele Supermärkte. Ab den Siebzigerjahren lautete die Devise in der Schweinezucht: Hauptsache viel und preiswert. Aus der einstigen Delikatesse Schwein wurde ein fades, industriell hochgezüchtetes, billiges Massenprodukt ohne Charakter, ohne Seele und ohne Geschmack.

Bereits vor mehr als 10.000 Jahren wurde das Wildschwein domestiziert und damit zum Hausschwein. Anders als Rinder, die zumeist zur Arbeit verwendet wurden, oder Schafe, deren Milch und Wolle man schätzte, wurde das Schwein bereits in der Antike ausschließlich zur Fleischproduktion gezüchtet. Die Römer waren geradezu fanatische Schweinefleischesser und sie waren auch die Ersten, die mit der professionellen Herstellung von Schinken und Wurstwaren begannen. Das Spätmittelalter war schließlich die Zeit der Spanferkel, die bei keinem wichtigen Fest fehlen durften.

Bis zum 18. Jahrhundert wurden hauptsächlich halbwilde, domestizierte Schweinerassen gezüchtet und verspeist. Im 19. Jahrhundert kam es dann zu verschiedenen Einkreuzungen anderer Rassen, aus denen zwei berühmte Schweinerassen entstanden sind: das Schwäbisch-Höllische Landschwein und das Mangalitza-Schwein. Beide haben ein sehr aromatisches Fleisch und eine dicke Fettschicht.

Ein Qualitätsverlust bahnte sich im ausgehenden 19. Jahrhundert an, als die rosafarbenen englischen Schweinerassen auf den Kontinent kamen. Sie waren aus einer Kreuzung von heimischen Hausschweinen und importierten Tieren aus Ostasien entstanden – mit dem Ziel, möglichst schnelles Wachstum und einen hohen Speckanteil zu erreichen. Aufgrund ihrer raschen Gewichtszunahme wurden sie immer beliebter und verdrängten die heimischen Rassen, die wesentlich langsamer heranwuchsen. Hinzu kam, dass man ab 1950 damit begann, den Schweinen das Fett regelrecht wegzuzüchten. Dies führte zu den traurigen Hungerschweinen, deren geschmackloses Fleisch (denn ohne Fett kein Geschmack) die Regale der Geschäfte und Supermärkte füllte – und vielfach bis heute füllt.

Doch abseits der Billigfleischproduktion gewinnen alte, heimische Rassen wieder an Bedeutung, und auch die Massentierhaltung ist – zumindest in Österreich – nicht mehr das Maß aller Dinge.
Schweinefleisch steht bei österreichischen und deutschen Konsumenten hoch im Kurs. Fast zwei Drittel des in Österreich konsumierten Fleisches stammt vom Schwein. Statistisch gesehen werden im Durchschnitt pro Person 41 Kilo pro Jahr verdrückt, in Deutschland sind es mit 40 Kilogramm nicht viel weniger. Und der Bedarf steigt von Jahr zu Jahr. 2010 wurden in Deutschland immerhin 58 Millionen Schweine geschlachtet. In Österreich sind es jährlich mehr als fünf Millionen.

Nur rund ein Prozent aller Schweine hat in Österreich und Deutschland das Glück, in Freilandhaltung zu leben. Das Positive dabei: Die Tendenz ist steigend.

(Der Artikel erschien im Falstaff Nr. 1/2011.)

Zutaten für 2 Personen:

2 Schweinekoteletts
2-3 Stück mittlere Erdäpfel pro Person
1 Bund Petersilie
200 ml Rindssuppe
Öl
Butter
Salz
Pfeffer aus der Mühle, schwarz

1. Erdäpfel pellen, vierteln und 20 Minuten kochen.
2. Öl erhitzen und das Schweinekotelett ca. 4 Minuten pro Seite (auf Stufe 7 aus 10) braten, dann herausnehmen, den Bratenrückstand mit Suppe aufgießen und frisch gehackte Petersilie dazugeben. Die Sauce aufkochen lassen.
3. Die Erdäpfel in eine Pfanne mit Butter und sehr viel Petersilie geben und einmal durchschwenken.
4. Das Schweinekotelett mit den Erdäpfeln und mit der Sauce auf vorgewärmten Tellern servieren.

75 Gedanken zu „Schweinekotelett mit Petersilienerdäpfel“

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